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Adventures with Jane! Day I of the JASNA Tour!

So now begins Day I of the JASNA tour! – I am off to Windsor where it is all to begin – we are to stay for one night at the MacDonald Windsor Hotel right in the heart of town [do I dare mention a TK Maxx next door? – notice it is TK not TJ – same beast, different country, apparently to avoid confusion with another UK retailer TJ Hughes – this explained via google…]

Well, enough of shopping – how to be in Windsor and spend time in a TK Maxx?? [though I did find a terrific dress!]

I have been to The Castle before, so other than a few shots I decided to just wander around the town, which feels like a small village – and alas, the first shop I see is Seasalt Cornwall [back to shopping sorry to say] – a friend of mine in England loves these clothes, and so I now added a new blouse to my suitcase [the end of trip found me in need of a new, larger carry-on – mostly books and pamphlets, some gifts, and a few clothes…it is all so irresistible…].

The main street was busy, a beautiful day beginning to be clouded over, as you can see here with Queen Victoria overlooking it all:

And here the famous Shambles, now a café, bar and bottle shop [formerly a teahouse] – known as “the Crooked House of Windsor,” it dates from 1687, and is, as you can see, Crooked…

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I did visit the Parish Church of St. John the Baptist [one of many churches on the trip, and uniquely not named after St. Nicholas (which many of those we saw are – stay tuned to start counting)] – the present church is from 1822, when it replaced an ancient Saxon / Norman building. Some pictures from here, highlighted by the two thrones, a gift of Princess Augusta, daughter of George III, who regularly worshipped here:

The Last Supper, that hangs on the wall above the west door, was painted by Franz de Cleyn (1588-1658), court painter to James I, and previously hung in St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle. It is considered a national treasure:

Felt quite regal meandering back to the hotel by way of the EII Walkway, to check in and meet up with my roommate [yay!], and then onto our first group dinner, where we all introduced ourselves and gave a bit of our history with JASNA. I felt right at home as a good number of the people were already known to me – a very companionable group, with many days ahead of us to get to know each other as we retreated into the early 19th century with Jane.

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Adventures with Jane! ~ All About the Duke of Wellington and a Little Bit of Henry Austen…

I am ashamed to say I have never been to Apsley House, home of the Duke of Wellington, so that was my goal this day – Ron had never been either, so we met there [right at the Hyde Park Gate, address is One London as you exit from Hyde Park] – and if you had a doubt as to whose home this was [and is], the number of portraits, sculptures, and paraphernalia of the Duke would certainly give you a hint… not to mention the statue of said Duke in the park across the street…

And the Wellington Arch: it is crowned by the largest bronze sculpture in Europe: the Angel of Peace descending on the Chariot of War. You can read about its history [and controversy] here.

One of the many portraits of the Duke

Your basic dining room…

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I loved it here – and art collection beyond compare – I could have spent many more hours. But for a man who by all accounts liked the simple life of being on a campaign, the extent of elaborate decorative arts and sumptuous décor seems to belie that – the color RED everywhere, and YELLOW…

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One of two great surprises at Apsley is the extensive Spanish art collection in the Waterloo Gallery, “one of the great palatial interiors of Britain” [the Apsley House Guidebook by English Heritage] – a gift of King Ferdinand of Spain in 1816, the 165 paintings were found in an abandoned baggage carriage of Napoleon’s brother Joseph Bonaparte, then King of Spain. I give one fine example: “The Gambler,” by “a follower of Caravaggio”:

The other grand surprise was to find on entering the house a large nude statue of all people Napoleon! Napoleon as Mars the Peacemaker by Canova. It had been commissioned by Napoleon but had been covered up at the Louvre – after Waterloo Britain bought it for 66,000 francs and the Prince Regent [George IV] gifted it to Wellington. The entry stairwell was the only possible location and the floor had to be reinforced to support the great weight. Wellington admired Napoleon and there are several paintings of him in the art collection here. You can see the stairwell and the size in my more modest photo (!) here – this better picture of the whole statue is from the guidebook [it actually looks much larger than this image conveys – I did burst out laughing when I saw it was Napoleon…]

A friend of mine went several years ago to Apsley House for one of their occasional Regency balls – I can only imagine the swoosh of the dresses and music all around … you can see such a one in this youtube: https://www.facebook.com/ApsleyHouse/videos/2444115022311548

Alas! I had to content myself with an audio guide and a vivid imagination…

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Next up was Henry Austen! Ron and I were off to Sloane Square, where I served as a grateful listener for one of Ron’s walking tours of Austen sites. I had done this part of Henry Austen’s life before but Ron’s history of it all added much to my knowledge, not to mention another glorious weather day… all followed by lunch in a crowded outside eatery right in the middle of the weekend Sloane Square market – made one feel like a real Londoner!

Henry’s house in Hans Place…

What Henry’s house would have looked like then…

And the requisite Blue Plaque so we know it’s true…

adding this sketch from Constance Hill’s book JA: Her Homes and Her Friends (1902):

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Another great day with Ron…we bid adieu ’til a next visit [we have already lined up an itinerary…] – and I had a fine dinner later at my hotel [that is water not vodka!]:


Next up: the beginning of the JASNA Tour starting in Windsor!

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Georgian England · Georgian Period · Great Britain - History · Jane Austen · Jane Austen Circle · London · Museum Exhibitions · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

Adventures with Jane! ~ Twickenham with Ron Dunning

This day I had the pleasure of spending time with Ron Dunning – we have in the past visited estates and famous houses, and this time the plan was to go to Horace Walpole’s Strawberry Hill

– alas! it was CLOSED [who closes a tourist site on a Friday??!] – but a few outside photos give you a sense of its grandeur – inside for another trip I am sorry to say – but you can visit it virtually here:

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But Marble Hill was a lovely surprise – home to Henrietta Howard, mistress of George II [for which George’s wife Caroline was most grateful] – apparently George spoke no English and Henrietta was deaf, so a perfect relationship that lasted until he took on another mistress [you can read the ever-interesting George’s mistress stories here.

Howard was unhappily married, separated, but a well-loved and respected woman of education, wit, and grace. She also had a “home of her own” – she designed and lived in Marble Hill beginning in the 1720s, one of the many villas built along the Thames – it remains a rare example of a house built for and by a woman in Georgian England, thankfully saved by an Act of Parliament in 1902. Unlike many such estates, it feels like a very real and livable home, not a museum – you can read more about Henrietta and Marble Hill here.

Love this dining room wallpaper:

View from the Thames:

And now a view of the modern Thames, not likely what Henrietta saw!:

Lunch at the Couch House café was an added treat.

[You can read more about Marble Hill at this post by Tony Grant from 2013!]

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We did go to nearby Orleans House, now really just the Gallery standing – I only took a picture of the exquisite ceiling, but here is also an exterior shot courtesy of Wikipedia:

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And to finish off the day, we took in the country home Sandycombe Lodge of J. M. W. Turner, where there was an inspiring watercolor exhibit of “Turner’s Kingdom: Beauty, Birds, and Beasts,” and very unlike the large and dramatic landscapes we associate with him. Celebrating Turner’s 250th [just like Jane!], the house, designed by Turner, is a small retreat that Turner lived in with his father.

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And this just another window of interest – and wisteria EVERYWHERE! [just like in SC…]

And another day “well-spent” – Thank you Ron for shepherding me around the sites of Twickenham!

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Great Britain - History · Jane Austen · Jane Austen Circle · JASNA · Literature · London · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

Adventures with Jane! London Day 2 with Tony Grant

I had planned this day with my friend Tony Grant of “London Calling” fame – we met at Waterloo Station under the famous clock [where I promptly lost my sunglasses – bought a ridiculous looking magenta pair at Boots and wore them for the rest of the tour..]


Our itinerary was to take the train to Tony’s house [Tony graciously met me at Waterloo: did you know that anyone over 60 in the UK gets to ride all transportation for FREE?? – well, if you are UK citizen that is], where Marilyn offered me tea and goodies and then the three of us were off driving to Frances Burney sites: this was our plan:

We drove to Streatham to see the area of the Hester Thrale’s [later Piozzi] home at Streatham Park where many literary greats were entertained – most especially Dr. Johnson and Frances Burney – the house sadly demolished in 1863 for “suburban development.”

Then onto the village of Chessington where we saw the spot where Chessington Hall existed, the country house of Samuel Crisp, the close friend of Frances Burney – she largely wrote Cecilia here while visiting. [the house was demolished in 1965 for a housing development…a sad pattern here, don’t you think?]

A number of years ago Tony and I did a trek to Box Hill – but a rainy / foggy day allowed for NO VIEWS [see post here and the foggy pictures at the end] – so this time we made up for that by walking the trails and seeing exactly where Emma and crew had their debacle of a picnic – you could almost hear “Badly done!” echoing in the breeze…

and some interesting after-Jane history at Box Hill:

Had lunch at The Running Horses Inn & Pub  – well, they were past serving lunch, but a funeral lunch had just finished and the grieving family invited us to eat whatever we wanted from what was left of their father’s ‘celebration of life’ luncheon – a very kind and generous offer –

I did love their wallpaper in the ladies’ room:

So drinks and free food at the pub and then we were off to Mickleham and the house [Juniper Hall – now a part of the National Trust] where Germaine de Staël and the French émigrés lived – this is where Burney was first introduced to Alexandre D’Arblay – love at first sight apparently! You cannot go inside as it now is a field center for educational camps, but we did do a quick walk-through of the entrance area and the room where Burney likely met D’Arblay [sans vacuum]…

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And then off to the Norman church in Mickleham where Burney and D’Arblay were married on July 28, 1793, the St. Michael and All Angels Church:

[We did not do Great Bookham today as it was to be part of the JASNA tour, so stay tuned for that with its Burney connection…] 

Tony & Marilyn in front of the St. Mary the Virgin Church in Chessington – the church was not open – we would like to have seen the Burne-Jones designed window of “Faith, Hope, and Charity” and the Samuel Crisp Memorial penned by Frances Burney [here thanks to wikipedia]:

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It was all in all a day well-spent! With hearty thanks to Tony and Marilyn for driving me all over the suburbs and countryside…!

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Fashion & Costume · Great Britain - History · Jane Austen · JASNA · London · Museum Exhibitions · Social Life & Customs · Victorian Period

Adventures with Jane ~ The JASNA Tour 2025!

So, finally, after years of doing various Jane Austen treks on my own, I was finally able to take the JASNA tour this May. And what a delight! Great itinerary, great accommodations, food, and brilliant company! Celebrating Austen’s 250th, we toured the various locales of her life and works, and always with the feeling of Jane herself looking over one’s shoulder, wondering what all the fuss was about…

Highlights are too hard to list in order of preference – each day a new adventure – and rather like being asked which is your favorite Austen novel, the answer always being “the one I have just finished” – the best of the tour was each new day.

I will say that being able to be the first to go into the 8 College Street address in Winchester where Austen passed away on July 18th 1817 was the most emotional – more on that soon – but it was a surprise to all of us that the College had worked so hard on getting it ready before expectations, and we were ushered in…

I shall try to sum up each day with a few pictures – I took 1227 in total [yikes!] and shall not burden you with all that [I have a penchant for windows and doors – and goodness knows where they are actually located…] – so here goes, as I start the course of my adventure, arriving in London several days early to visit sites with friends…

This is how you know you are in England:

DAY 1: Arrival, Lack of Sleep, Kensington walks

Arrived at my Kensington hotel but unable to check in until 3:00pm so wandered around on my own. I had lived in this Cromwell Road area as a student in 1968 [and where I met my husband] – so like to stay in this area when in London – changed a good deal, but the V&A and Prince Albert Hall are a short walk away and did this until lack of sleep set in:

V&A:

Cartier sold out, so I skipped through the Fashion Exhibit: was lucky to see this as it was closed to visitors just a few days later – a few favorites:


Then this, which I could look at for hours…:

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Royal Albert Hall, where I confess to never having been!

And this, proof of how very civilized the Brits are…


And to sleep to prepare for another day …”Oh! to be in England…”

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JASNA-Vermont ~ Next Meeting! March 23, 2025 – via Zoom

Let There be Light (A ZOOM Meeting), 

Sunday, March 23, 2025

2:00-3:30 pm

In Jane Austen’s Regency England the winter sun set before 4:00 PM. In Austen’s novels, candles illuminate the Netherfield Ball in Pride and Prejudice and the Christmas Eve party at Randalls in Emma.

In this JASNA-Vermont Zoom presentation, Marti Sterin will share Sue Dell’s 2018 AGM presentation Let There Be Light, which will illuminate for us the way Jane Austen’s characters lit their worlds.

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This free event will be online via Zoom. Register here:

https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/siuf-1HrSrSN4RP7rEIiTQ

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email with information on how to join the meeting.

For more information: 

JASNAVTregion@gmail.com
Blog: https://janeausteninvermont.blog/
Facebook: Jane Austen in Vermont

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Jane Austen · Jane Austen Circle · JASNA-Vermont events · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

JASNA-Vermont event ~ Austen Birthday Tea with Pianist Donna Chaff ~ Dec 8th!


An Austen Birthday Tea with pianist

Donna Chaff
“Musical Jane”

Sunday, Dec 8, 1:00-3:00
Charlotte Senior Center, 212 Ferry Rd, Charlotte

 Join us for our Jane Austen Birthday Tea on Sunday, December 8, 1-3, with pianist Donna Chaff. The program “Musical Jane” will feature music from the life, novels, and films of Jane Austen with selections chosen from the Austen Family Music Collection.

Donna Chaff is an avid Jane Austen fan, a member of JASNA, and enjoys researching music of the Regency Era. Donna has been a music educator for over 35 years and has performed concerts in the US, Italy, Austria, and Greece. She was the 2011 Massachusetts recipient of the “Excellence in General Music” Award. On a recent visit, Donna was honored to play the 1813 Clementi piano at Chawton Cottage! 

~ Free & open to the public ~ Light refreshments ~

For more information:
Email: JASNAVTregion@gmail.com
Facebook: Jane Austen in Vermont
Blog: janeausteninvermont.blog

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Austen Literary History & Criticism · Jane Austen · JASNA-Vermont events · Schedule of Events · Social Life & Customs

JASNA-Vermont ~ May Meeting with Lesley Peterson on Jane Austen’s Teenage Dramas!


Featuring guest speaker

Lesley Peterson

Austen Family Theatricals and Jane Austen’s Teenage Dramas

Sunday, May 5, 1:00-3:00, 
Temple Sinai,
500 Swift St., S. Burlington, VT

What can we learn about Jane Austen if, instead of asking whether she liked the theatre, we ask what kind of theatre she preferred? Does Aunt Norris speak for Jane Austen when she opines in Mansfield Park that “There is very little sense in a play without a curtain?” Or did Austen prefer to perform, and to write, plays designed for the curtain-less stage that Shakespeare wrote for? How did her encounters with the intense process of planning, rehearsing, and performing a family theatrical influence her writing?

The presentation will include opportunities for audience participation.

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Lesley Peterson is brought to us through a JASNA National Traveling Lecturer Grant. She is the editor of the Journal of Juvenilia Studies and before her retirement was Professor of English at the University of North Alabama. She teaches Shakespeare to children and has published or presented on the drama of Jane Austen, Elizabeth Carey, Margaret Cavendish, Shakespeare, and Tennyson.

~ Free & open to the public ~ Light refreshments served ~

For more information: JASNAVTregion@gmail.com
Website: https://janeausteninvermont.blog/
Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/groups/50565859210

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Austen Literary History & Criticism · Books · Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

Re-blogging from Two Teens in the Time of Austen

Austen Literary History & Criticism · Jane Austen · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

In Memory of Jane Austen ~ July 18, 1817

From the archives: July 18, 1817.  Just a short commemoration on this sad day…

No one said it better than her sister Cassandra who wrote

have lost a treasure, such a Sister, such a friend as never can have been surpassed,- She was the sun of my life, the gilder of every pleasure, the soother of every sorrow, I had not a thought concealed from her, & it is as if I had lost a part of myself…”

(Letters, ed. by Deidre Le Faye [3rd ed, 1997], From Cassandra to Fanny Knight, 20 July 1817, p. 343; full text of this letter is at the Republic of Pemberley)

There has been much written on Austen’s lingering illness and death; see the article by Sir Zachary Cope published in the British Medical Journal of July 18, 1964, in which he first proposes that Austen suffered from Addison’s disease.  And see also Claire Tomalin’s biography Jane Austen: A life, “Appendix I, “A Note on Jane Austen’s Last Illness” where she suggests that Austen’s symptoms align more with a lymphoma such as Hodgkin’s disease.

The Gravesite:

Austen is buried in Winchester Cathedral

….where no mention is made of her writing life on her grave:

It was not until after 1870 that a brass memorial tablet was placed by her nephew James Edward Austen-Leigh on the north wall of the nave, near her grave:

It tells the visitor that:

Jane Austen

[in part] Known to many by her writings,
endeared to her family
by the varied charms of her characters
and ennobled by her Christian faith and piety
was born at Steventon in the County of Hants.
December 16 1775
and buried in the Cathedral
July 18 1817.
“She openeth her mouth with wisdom
and in her tongue is the law of kindness.”

The Obituaries:

David Gilson writes in his article “Obituaries” that there are eleven known published newspaper and periodical obituary notices of Jane Austen: here are a few of them:

  1. Hampshire Chronicle and Courier (vol. 44, no. 2254, July 21, 1817, p.4):  “Winchester, Saturday, July 19th: Died yesterday, in College-street, Miss Jane Austen, youngest daughter of the late Rev. George Austen formerly Rector of Steventon, in this county.”
  2. Hampshire Telegraph and Sussex Chronicle (vol. 18, no. 928, p. 4)…”On Friday last died, Miss Austen, late of Chawton, in this County.”
  3. Courier (July 22, 1817, no. 7744, p. 4), makes the first published admission of Jane Austen’s authorship of the four novels then published: “On the 18th inst. at Winchester, Miss Jane Austen, youngest daughter of the late Rev. George Austen, Rector of Steventon, in Hampshire, and the Authoress of Emma, Mansfield Park, Pride and Prejudice, and Sense and Sensibility.  Her manners were most gentle; her affections ardent; her candor was not to be surpassed, and she lived and died as became a humble Christian.” [A manuscript copy of this notice in Cassandra Austen’s hand exists, as described by B.C. Southam]
  4. The Hampshire Telegraph and Sussex Chronicle published a second notice in its next issue (July 28, 1817, p. 4) to include Austen’s writings.

There are seven other notices extant, stating the same as the above in varying degrees.  The last notice to appear, in the New Monthly Magazine (vol. 8, no. 44, September 1, 1817, p. 173) wrongly gives her father’s name as “Jas” (for James), but describes her as “the ingenious authoress” of the four novels…

[from Gilson’s article “Obituaries,” The Jane Austen Companion. Macmillan, 1986. p. 320-1]

Links to other articles and sources:

There are many articles and blog posts being written today – I shall post links to all tomorrow – here are just a few:

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