Domestic Arts · Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · Jane Austen Popular Culture · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

Guest Post ~ Jane Austen Knits

Gentle Readers! ~ I welcome today Janeite Lynne, a JASNA-Vermont member and occasional contributor to this site, as she writes on Jane Austen and knitting!

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Jane Knits

 

They were entering the hall. Mr. Knightley’s eyes had preceded Miss Bates’s in a glance at Jane. From Frank Churchill’s face, where he thought he saw confusion suppressed or laughed away, he had involuntarily turned to hers; but she was indeed behind, and too busy with her shawl. [Emma]

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              Have you ever wanted to create the kind of shawl that Jane Fairfax might have hid behind or slippers that would have kept Elizabeth Bennet’s feet warm?  If your answer to this question is yes!, then, like me, you may be both a Janeite and a knitter.  I imagined that people with these two interests would be a very small subset of the larger groups, but this month Interweave Knits made me think I was wrong.  They have released a special edition of their magazine: Jane Austen Knits.

 

The patterns in the edition are organized around places: country, manor, garden, and town. There are over thirty patterns including:  shawls, shrugs, scarves, handwarmers, slippers, reticules,  Mr. Knightley’s Vest, and, of course, a tea cozy.  If you are a lace knitter, you will be in heaven.  Lace abounds!

Lydia Military Spencer

Jane Austen Knits goes beyond the patterns, though.  There are articles about knitting during Austen’s time; both Mrs. Austen and Cassandra knit.  People speculate that Austen herself probably knit, but there is no concrete evidence for this.  We know that she did needlework.  But knitting may have been one of the household chores that the family sheltered her from so that she could write.  There are other articles in the special edition on regency fashion, muslin, a timeline of her life and the historical events that happened during her lifetime, and even suggestions for Austen-inspired movies and auidobooks to watch or listen to while you are knitting.

Knitting during the Regency Period was a utilitarian activity, and therefore was a job for those without money.  Mrs. Bates in Emma, Mrs. Smith in Persuasion, and Mrs. Jennings in Sense and Sensibility all mention projects or engage in knitting.  Of course, Mrs. Jennings would be undaunted by fashionable society’s prejudices and continue to knit even when she was wealthy.  Still, I like to imagine that knitting not only served a necessary household function for the other characters but also gave them solace and satisfaction.  As Mrs. Smith says about Nurse Rooke: “As soon as I could use my hands, she taught me to knit, which has been a great amusement.”  I couldn’t agree with her more.

Pemberley slippers

[Images: from the Interweave website]

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More information at the Interweave website where you can order this special issue for $14.99. http://www.interweavestore.com/Knitting/Magazines/Jane-Austen-Knits-2011.html

Thank you Lynne for sharing this! – makes me want to dig out my old knitting needles and get to work! 

Miss Bennet's beaded bag
Copyright @2011 by Lynne H, of Jane Austen in Vermont
Books · Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · JASNA · Literature · Museum Exhibitions · News · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

The Penny Post Weekly Review ~ All Things Jane Austen!

The Penny Post Weekly Review

  October 30, 2011

News / Gossip: JASNA

For those who did not go to the AGM [and for those who did because the sound was flawed] – here is the video previewing the upcoming AGM in New York City next October [via Kerri]: http://jasna.org/agms/newyork/video/

You can follow the 2012 AGM plans here: http://jasna.org/agms/newyork/index.html

[how easily we forget our cowboys and barbecued spare ribs! – how fickle we are!]

And even further into the future – here is the JASNA AGM 2014 on Facebook: “Mansfield Park in Montreal” [Fanny supporters unite!] – http://www.facebook.com/pages/JASNA-AGM2014/230649860329213?sk=wall

A review of the play S&S in Fort Worth: spoiler alert! Gender bias! http://www.dfw.com/2011/10/18/525176/youll-like-sense-and-sensibility.html


The Circulating Library

“The Making of a Homemaker” – a Smithsonian Institution online exhibition about the domestic guidebooks written for the 19th century American housewife: many images

http://www.sil.si.edu/ondisplay/making-homemaker/intro.htm

Image: Mrs. Lydia Green Abell. The Skillful Housewife’s Book: or Complete Guide to Domestic Cookery, Taste, Comfort and Economy. New York: R. T. Young, 1853.

  • Articles of Interest

Gemmill, Katie. “Jane Austen as Editor: Letters on Fiction and the Cancelled Chapters of Persuasion.”   ECF 24.1 (2011): 105-122

“Seen but Not heard: Servants in Jane Austen’s England”  by Judith Terry:
http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/printed/number10/terry.htm
[via Christy S.]

  •  Books I am Looking Forward to…

Persuasion, An Annotated Edition, edited by Robert Morrison [in the same series as the Annotated Pride and Prejudice edited by Patricia Myers Spacks] – http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?recid=31301

The Jennifer Kloester biography of Georgette Heyer:  a not so glowing review in The Guardian: http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2011/oct/06/georgette-heyer-biography-review-kloester

I think I might weigh in after reading it myself – I thoroughly enjoyed the Hodge biography…

If you have read Bill Bryson’s At Home and Amanda Vickery’s Behind Closed Doors [and etc. regarding her titles] – and need another fix for your domestic matters obsessions, here is a must-have: If Walls Could Talk by Lucy Worsley [image US and UK cover: note that it is not available in the US until 2/2012 and has a different cover] – Ms. Worsley recently aired her Elegance and Decadence, The Age of the Regency on BBC4, also not available here until when ?? [though it is available for streaming, on youtube, etc.]  [makes one want to abandon the colonies for good and head to the mothership?]

You can follow Lucy Worsley’s blog here: http://www.lucyworsley.com/home.html where there is a link for the book…

US cover
UK cover

If you like to buy Jane Austen’s six novels in various forms by cover, editor, etc, here is a new take on cover art:

http://www.africandigitalart.com/2011/10/jane-austen-remixed-thandiwe-tshabalala/

A review by Claire Harman [of Jane’s Fame fame] of P.D. James’s Death Comes to Pemberley here: http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/lifestyle/book/article-24002867-death-comes-to-pemberley—review.do?mid=513438

  • On my bedside table

Claire Tomalin’s Dickens: http://www.penguin.co.uk/nf/Book/BookDisplay/0,,9780670917679,00.html

And speaking of Dickens, a reminder about the exhibition at the Morgan Library and Museum: http://www.themorgan.org/exhibitions/exhibition.asp?id=48

Websites and Blogs worth a look:

I’ve looked at this before, but a friend [thanks Joe!] reminded me to give it another look:  Jane Austen’s family on Ancestry.com

http://wc.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~janeausten

“A Dude Reads Jane Austen” at the Gone Reading blog: http://gonereading.com/site/2011/10/20/a-dude-reads-jane-austen-volume-2/

And visit the Gone Reading blog to find out about their reading foundation – have a look and give if you can!

A group blog by British historical fiction authors: English History Authors http://www.englishhistoryauthors.blogspot.com/

“Britain leaves us awed by ancient castles, ruins and museums. History pours out a legacy of battles, a developing monarchy, a structured class system, court-inspired behaviors and fashions, artwork and writings that have created an international hoard of Anglophiles. From among them have come forth those who feel that they must fuel the fire. Welcome to the happy home of English Period Authors. We have come together to share, inspire and celebrate and to reach out to our cherished readers.”

“What links Jane Austen, John Nash, Humphry Repton and Blaise Hamlet?” at the Georgian Gentleman blog:

Blaise Castle – Humphry Repton

http://georgiangentleman.posterous.com/blaise-hamlets-homes-fit-for-the-elderly
[via Two Nerdy History Girls]

Thrifty Jane blog – interviews with various Austen characters, esp the “thrifty” sort! [i.e. Mrs. Norris, Lucy Steele, Lady C, etc…] http://thriftyjane.wordpress.com/

Jane Austen Confessions: http://austenconfessions.tumblr.com/

Recipes from Colonial Williamsburg: http://recipes.history.org/

A reminder of this site, Bath In Time: http://www.bathintime.co.uk/

[image: Inside the Assembly Rooms, 1805]

A post on Ackermann’s many prints, reproduced on this blog: [via Jane Austen’s World blog]:

Ackermann’s Library 1813

http://ekduncan.blogspot.com/2011/10/regency-england-interior-views.html?mid=50

Any interest in English Handwriting?? – here is an amazing online course for free – makes me want to dig out my old calligraphy pens and settle in for a winter class!:

http://www.english.cam.ac.uk/ceres/ehoc/

‘The Earle of Essex his instructions to his sonne’

and here is more handwriting information:
http://paleo.anglo-norman.org/empfram.html

A post by Simon Beattie on the man who tried to kill King George III in 1800: http://www.simonbeattie.kattare.com/blog/?p=57


Museum Musings – Exhibition Trekking:

I’ve posted on this before and now the exhibition is open:

Dorothy Jordan – NPG

http://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/the-firstactresses/first_actresses_exhibition.php

[and while there, don’t forget to sign up for the Fortnum & Mason luxury hamper giveaway! – http://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/the-first-actresses/competition.php

And visit Austenonly for a review of the accompanying book:

http://austenonly.com/2011/10/19/book-review-of-the-first-actresses-nell-gwyn-to-sarah-siddons-by-gill-perry-with-joseph-roach-and-shearer-west/

The Charleston Museum (in South Carolina) will be offering a documentary film series on quilts: http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/event.asp?ID=444 [be sure to watch the video at this link]

And also visit the upcoming exhibit Coat Check: [image] Nov. 12, 2011 – March 4, 2012 http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/exhibits-coatcheck

Coat c1830

Caravaggio and His Followers in Rome:   this exhibit was at the Kimball Art Museum in Fort Worth, but I was unfortunately unable to go – Laurel Ann at Austenprose did see it on the Sunday as she was leaving later than me – she said I must buy the book, so here you go, another lovely art book to peruse: http://yalepress.yale.edu/yupbooks/book.asp?isbn=9780300170726

Exhibit info here:
https://www.kimbellart.org/Exhibitions/Exhibition-Details.aspx?eid=74

and here at the National Gallery of Canada:
http://www.gallery.ca/caravaggio/en/index.htm

Winterthur Museum:
“With Cunning Needle: Four Centuries of Embroidery”

http://www.winterthur.org/?p=901

and the upcoming conference: http://www.winterthur.org/?p=892
[via Two Nerdy History Girls]


Continuing Education:

Check out this Colorado Romance Writers, Inc. Online Workshop Series
class for NOVEMBER 2011!

Writing Between the Sexes (Using gender differences to
create believable characters)

Instructor: Leigh Michaels http://www.leighmichaels.com/
Date: October 31 – November 25, 2011

DESCRIPTION: Have you ever read a mystery where the heroine sounds like
an oversexed gangster? Or a romance where the hero sounds more like a
girlfriend than a man? Chances are, the oversexed heroine was created by
a male author; the tender, emotional hero by a woman. Men and women
think, act, and talk differently – which causes problems for writers
who are trying to create characters of the opposite sex. Learn about the
most common gender differences, and use them to create believable
characters of the opposite sex. (And along the way, you may get some
great ideas about how to deal with your husband, boyfriend, boss, big
brother, or other assorted males — or for the first time, understand
what’s really going on inside the head of your wife, girlfriend, mom…)

Fee: $20 CRW Members; $25 Non-CRW Members. FMI about the workshops or
speakers, or to register: http://crw-rwa.ning.com

Shopping

The Jane Austen Centre is beginning its holiday shopping marketing:  here are some  ideas from the “Pemberley Collection”: http://www.janeaustengiftshop.co.uk/images/2611.html

“The popular colours of Regency England” 

Sage and other variants were very fashionable during the Regency period as a green dye that did not fade or darken was invented. However, it was literaly the colour to die for – the pigment contained a poisonous copper arsenic compound! 

Plum is a much nicer word than ‘Puce’, which was popular in the Regency period. The purplish pink shade was named after the French word for ‘Flea’ as it resembled the shade of the blood sucking insect after a meal. Yuck! 

Teal and shades of blue were also in demand. In Jane Austen’s time dyes were expensive, pigments made of natural substances and the resulting hues rather muted compared to our modern artificial dyes, hence this lovely soft shade of teal would have been considered as being quite bright!

[from the Jane Austen Centre website]

[sage, plum and teal being my favorite colors – I knew I was born in the wrong century!]

For Fun

A joke on twitter – Victorian London:

“Why are a chimney sweep and a bugler good partners at cards?

One can follow soot, the other can trumpet.” joke, 1884

This just strikes my funny bone: “The Invisible Mother” at How to be a Retronaut:

And finally, absolutely nothing to do with Jane Austen or the 18th or the 19th century:

Swim caps from the 50s – thankfully we have come a long way baby…: [via How to Be  a Retronaut]   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtZJMlOu0Sw

Copyright @2011 by Deb Barnum of Jane Austen in Vermont
Books · Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · Jane Austen Popular Culture · Jane Austen Sequels · JASNA · Literature · Museum Exhibitions · News · Regency England

The Penny Post Weekly Review ~ All Things Austen!

The Penny Post Weekly Review

  22 August 2011 

News & Gossip: 

-The Austenesque Extravaganza continues on a daily basis at the  Austenesque Reviews  blog – stop by to participate in the fun and comment to win the various giveaways ! through August: http://janeaustenreviews.blogspot.com/

-The Jane Austen Fan Kit for your iphone: an absolute must-have!http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/jane-austen-fan-kit/id455959904?mt=8 

-The BBC Four: Elegance and Decadence: Age of the Regency http://www.tvrage.com/shows/id-29231 – how I hate we don’t get BBC Four; you can get more information to whet your appetite and /or get really depressed you don’t live in the UK at Lucy Worsley’s bloghttp://www.lucyworsley.com/blog/im-hanging-up-my-red-regency-dress/

-But do not completely despair: we do have this on BBC America – The Hour -a six-week series – I loved the first one aired this past week [wednesday night at 10 here in Vermont] – it is peopled with Austen “graduates”: Juliet Stevenson [the perfect Austen narrator], Anna Chancelor[Miss Bingley in 1995, following her role as “Duckface” in Four Weddings and a Funeral [Hugh Grant], and Romola Garai, the latest “Emma’ … http://www.bbcamerica.com/content/444/index.jsp

-More on the Pride and Prejudice,  The Musical – this time a lovely personal story with a military twist – a tale of Jane Austen bringing people together [as she does do well…]:  http://www.facebook.com/notes/jane-austens-pride-and-prejudice-a-musical/isnt-love-wonderful-a-soldiers-perspective-of-pp/253926927962318
[fromJASNA-NY] 

Frances Burney

-The Frances Burney Society invites submissions for the Hemlow Prize in Burney Studies,

… named in honour of the late Joyce Hemlow, whose biography of Frances Burney and edition of her journals and letters are among the foundational works of eighteenth-century literary scholarship. The Hemlow Prize will be awarded to the best essay written by a graduate student on any aspect of the life or writings of Frances Burney or members of the Burney Family. The essay, which can be up to 6,000 words, should make a substantial contribution to Burney scholarship.  The Prize will be awarded in October 2011.  Submissions must be received by September 1, 2011. 

 See here for more details: http://burneycentre.mcgill.ca/burneysociety.html [scroll down for the information]


JASNA News:
 

-The JASNA-Vermont September meeting, when we will be hosting JASNA president Iris Lutz, will be once again part of the Burlington Book Festivalhttp://burlingtonbookfestival.com/  Iris will be presenting her talk “ ‘in proportion to their family and income’: Houses in Jane Austen’s Life and Fiction.” Join us if you can [more information forthcoming]

-Laurel Ann at Austenprose attended the 20th anniversary of the Puget Sound JASNA Region and tells the tale here:  http://austenprose.com/2011/08/19/jasna-puget-sound-celebrates-its-20th-anniversary/

 
The Circulating Library:

House of Lords - Pugin & Rowlandson - Ackermann print

see the Rudolph Ackermann information at the Town and Country in Miniature online collection at Augustana College Special Collections: http://www.augustana.edu/SpecialCollections/colorplate/ackermann.html[see the other parts of this exhibit as well]
Websites  & Blogs:

-The Rice Portrait websitehttp://www.janeaustenriceportrait.co.uk/#

-Prinny’s Tailor: a blog by Charles Bazalgette about his ‘many greats’ grandfather Louis Bazalgette who was tailor to the Prince Regent for 32 years.  This blog follows his research – the book is due out next year: http://chasbaz.posterous.com/

-Jane Austen week of old fashioned dolls and Regency dresses:  http://oldfashiondolls.blogspot.com/2011/08/jane-austen-week-day-5.html

-Georgian Gentleman bloghttp://georgiangentleman.posterous.com/?page=1 You can find information on his “Journal of a Georgian Gentleman” here: http://mikerendell.com/book.html 


Robert Rodi of Bitch in a  Bonnet:Reclaiming Jane Austen from the stiffs, the snobs, the simps and the saps  seems to be back in full swing blogging about his take on Mansfield Park: visit if you can and see Fanny redeemed! – http://bitchinabonnet.blogspot.com/


Regency Life & Fashion:

-Fashion:  Getting Dressed in the 18th Century:  love this!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCrn8YrVufU [[from the Jane Austen Centre Newsletter]

-Colonial Williamsburg’s online exhibition: just a lovely compilation!
Historic Threads: Three Centuries of Clothing
http://www.history.org/history/museums/clothingexhibit/museum_intro.cfm

 [Courtesy Colonial Williamsburg website]

-An exhibition at Fairfax House in York:
REVOLUTIONARY FASHION 1790 – 1820 [from August 29 through
December 31, 2011]: http://www.fairfaxhouse.co.uk/?idno=687&id=91

 


Book Thoughts:

-Hurray! Stephanie Barron’s latest Jane Austen mystery: http://www.stephaniebarron.com/canterbury-tale.php – this one featuring her brother Edward:


-The Twelfth Enchantment, by David Liss:  this one I could not resist ordering and it arrived today in my mailbox! – will let you know how it fares…

Lucy Derrick is a young woman of good breeding and poor finances. After the death of her beloved father, she is forced to maintain a shabby dignity as the unwanted boarder of her tyrannical uncle, fending off marriage to a local mill owner. But just as she is on the cusp of accepting a life of misery, events take a stunning turn when a handsome stranger—the poet and notorious rake Lord Byron—arrives at her house, stricken by what seems to be a curse, and with a cryptic message for Lucy. Suddenly her unfortunate circumstances are transformed in ways at once astonishing and seemingly impossible.

With the world undergoing an industrial transformation, and with Englandon the cusp of revolution, Lucy is drawn into a dangerous conspiracy in which her life, and her country’s future, are in the balance. Inexplicably finding herself at the center of cataclysmic events, Lucy is awakened to a world once unknown to her: where magic and mortals collide, and the forces of ancient nature and modern progress are at war for the soul of England. . . and the world. The key to victory may be connected to a cryptic volume whose powers of enchantment are unbounded.

Now, challenged by ruthless enemies with ancient powers at their command, Lucy must harness newfound mystical skills to prevent catastrophe and preserve humanity’s future. And enthralled by two exceptional men with designs on her heart, she must master her own desires to claim the destiny she deserves.

[From his website:  http://davidliss.com/ ]

But see this interview at The Big Thrill where he talks about Jane Austen [and why we are here after all…]  http://www.thebigthrill.org/2011/07/the-twelfth-enchantment-by-david-liss/ :

What is it about this time and place that compelled you to use it as the background for your story?

There are a number of factors that drew me here.  For a long time I’ve wanted to write a novel that was in communication with Jane Austen, but which deal with the economic and political issues that are absent, or at least at the margins of, her novels — the war with France, a series of devastating harvests resulting in food shortages and grain riots, an on-going economic recession, and, most importantly, changes in the labor market brought on by the industrial revolution.  This novel incorporates elements of the supernatural — specifically folk and scholarly magic as actually practiced by people who actually believed it worked — and there’s really no better time to write about such beliefs since the early industrial revolution was a period of profound change.  I wanted to write about a world that was on the verge of a major alteration, and England, at the beginning of industrialization and before the end of the Napoleonic Wars, works perfectly.

[I’m adding this because I like this answer!]  If you could meet just one historical figure, who would it be?

I have a great deal of affection for Henry Fielding, who helped pioneer the novel and the modern police force, was a brilliant legal mind, a wide-ranging intellectual, and a guy who could hang out and enjoy several bottles of wine (yes, several bottles!) while chatting with his friends.  My kind of guy.

-For a good read of something that Jane Austen read, try Patronage by Maria Edgeworth (1814) recently reviewed in The Guardianhttp://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2011/aug/14/patronage-maria-edgeworth-review-austen?INTCMP=SRCH

-A book review of Revolutionary Imaginings in the 1790s: Charlotte Smith, Mary Robinson, Elizabeth Inchbald, by Amy Garnai (Palgrave Macmillan, 2009), about other writers that Jane Austen read and admired:
http://www.nbol-19.org/view_doc.php?index=147


Articles of interest:

-This late edition news:  from Tracy Kiely of Murder at Mansfield Park fame [and other Jane Austen mysteries], Battle of the Bonnets– get your fightin’ gloves on for Bronte v. Austen, legal style!  [with thanks to Kerri S for the link]


Museums / Exhibits
:

-National Portrait Gallery: Art for the Nation: Sir Charles Eastlake at the National Gallery – 27 July – 30 October 2011: “This exhibition illuminates the life and work of the Gallery’s first director, Sir Charles Lock Eastlake (1793–1865), a man described by one contemporary as ‘the Alpha and Omega’ of the Victorian art world.”
http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/eastlake


Shopping:

The “Keep Calm & Carry On” theme that has been splattered everywhere from cards to books to wall hangings and t-shirts – here is a new contender!

http://www.etsy.com/listing/77493584/keep-calm-and-read-jane-austen-8×10?ref=sr_gallery_8&ga_search_submit=&ga_search_query=jane+austen&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_facet=handmade

-and one of my all-time favorites:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/37290400/jane-austen-my-other-rides-a-barouche?ref=sc_4


For Fun:
[what! SHOPPING isn’t fun?!]

-These are past our time period but How to Be a Retronaut offers this great collection of Victorian photographs, sure to bring you a daily chuckle:  don’t an awful lot of these husbands and wives LOOK ALIKE?! [not to mention a tad grim?]

http://www.howtobearetronaut.com/2011/08/victorian-husbands-and-wives/

Better Book Titleshttp://betterbooktitles.com/ – I already posted on this about Mansfield Park, newly titled: “I Couldn’t Even Finish the Spark Notes” – http://betterbooktitles.com/search/jane+austen – but add your comments for other Austen titles here:

https://janeausteninvermont.wordpress.com/2011/08/15/a-better-title-for-jane-austens-mansfield-park/

Signing off – stay tuned for the next edition…

Copyright @2011 Deb Barnum of Jane Austen in Vermont
Books · Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · JASNA · Museum Exhibitions · News · Regency England

The Penny Post Weekly Review ~ All Things Austen

The Penny Post Weekly Review

June 11, 2011

 Some goodies for this week – have you found anything of interest you would like to share? – please do!

 News and Gossip:

*Don’t miss this! – June 11 with Rick Steves: A Proper English Hour: Home, High Tea, and Jane Austen’s England Bill Bryson examines private life during the Victorian age; London guide Britt Lonsdale explains how to enjoy a proper afternoon tea service; and screenwriter Andrew Davies [soon to be the JASNA AGM in Fort Worth!] shares his appreciation for the works of Jane Austen.

Click here to find where it airs in your area [alas! In Vermont, nowhere!] http://www.ricksteves.com/radio/whereitairs.htm

But, thankfully, beginning on June 12, the show will also be available to download any time from their website archives at this page: http://www.ricksteves.com/radio/archive.htm

*Masterpiece Theatre announces its fall lineup: watch for Bill Nighy, Rachel Weisz, Alan Rickman, Emma Thompson, Ralph Fiennes and more! http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/schedule/fall_2011.html

*The Jane Austen Regency Week in the UK has several events worth either attending OR lamenting if you are on the wrong side of the pond: http://www.basingstokegazette.co.uk/leisure/general/9071636.Jane_Austen_s_Women_brought_to_life_by_Eastleigh_actress/

http://www.basingstokegazette.co.uk/leisure/general/9072738.Don_t_miss_Regency_Day_at_The_Vyne_on_Saturday/

*For those of us who are on the western shore of the Atlantic, there is the fabulous JASNA Louisville 4th annual Jane Austen Festival July 9 – 10, 2011: information and registration here: http://www.jasnalouisville.com/

*see  LimogesBoxCollector.com at https://www.limogesboxcollector.com/product_info.php?products_id=2183&osCsid=m86f91l6la8d4g1th82filhu66 for your very own Jane Austen bookshelf [$249.00]:

– the latest issue of Jane Austen’s Regency World mentions a Pride & Prejudice Limoges Box, which was announced by Limoges in March 2011 – only the above box appears on the Limoges website, so perhaps they are sold out? – here are the two boxes in the announcement – let me know if you bought one!:



Blogs, websites, and such:

Elizabeth Montague by Edward Haytley

*Elizabeth Montague and the Bluestocking Circle: http://elizabethmontaguletters.co.uk/home

Their project to put all her letters online: Our goal is to prepare a fully annotated electronic edition of Elizabeth Montagu’s correspondence. The author and bluestocking salonnière (1718-1800) was the leading woman of letters and artistic patron of her day. The 8,000 extant letters, ‘among the most important surviving collections from the eighteenth century’ (Schnorrenberg) is held in the British Library, the Bodleian and the Huntington Library, the latter of which holds 6,000 of them. Less than a quarter of these documents has been previously published and then in partial archaic print selections.

*Oxford Bookworms, where Pride and Prejudice is a bestseller in its Stage 6 series:  http://www.oup-bookworms.com/oxford-bookworms.cfm 

*World Digital Library, http://www.wdl.org/en/about/site.html – a joint venture of the Library of Congress and other world libraries – alas! no Austen, but this growing database is worth searching – in a quick look I find the Gutenberg Bible,  William Blake’s The Book of Urizen http://www.wdl.org/en/item/201/?ql=eng&s=william+blake&view_type=gallery

and an abundance of Robbie Burns!: http://www.wdl.org/en/search/gallery?ql=eng&s=robert+burns

*Angela Thirkell – For lovers of Trollope in need of more Barset stories, you should add Angela Thirkell to your book shelf – there is also yet another Society to join!  http://www.angelathirkell.org/

*Lit Lists: an interesting blog for lovers of lists – here, all literary ones:   http://litlists.blogspot.com/ – an example? – “Five Best New Ways of Portraying Lives” which includes Claire Harman’s Jane’s Fame http://litlists.blogspot.com/2011/06/five-best-new-ways-of-portraying-lives.html

* The recently established Fresno Area Regency England Fellowship http://fresnoarearegency.com/ has a nice website, where you can sign up for their monthly newsletter and facebook page.


Books – Reviews – Recommendations:

*A book review: Laura Miller at Salon.com on A Jane Austen Education:

http://www.salon.com/books/laura_miller/index.html?source=newsletter&utm_source=contactology&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Salon_Daily%20Newsletter%20%28Not%20Premium%29_7_30_110

*Miranda Seymour at the NYTimes on A Jane Austen Education and Rachel Brownstein’s Why Jane Austen?: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/06/12/books/review/book-review-a-jane-austen-education-and-why-jane-austen.html

*Reading lists:  I have found two perfect reading lists for what to read when you have read all of Jane Austen:


Other recommendations to add to your Austen Library:

 

Museums / Exhibitions:

The Musee McCord in Montreal – considered the leading collection of Canadian dress and the second most important collection of costume in Canada, this collection has grown since 1957 to contain some 18,845 items of dress and accessories – the Museum has the following 19th century fashion-related games online: [with thanks to JASNA-New Jersey http://cnjjasna.blogspot.com/ for this link]

Also in Musee des Beaux-Arts de Montreal: an exhibit of the Museum’s collection of Napoleon artifacts:  http://www.mbam.qc.ca/en/expositions/exposition_134.html

***************************

To close, I append a quote [and not even from Jane!] I found on a listserv – from Steven Wright [I love Steven Wright!]

“I was reading the dictionary. I thought it was a poem about everything.”
– Steven Wright, comedian (1955- )

He must have been reading Johnson’s Dictionary!

Copyright @2011 by Deb Barnum, of Jane Austen in Vermont
Fashion & Costume · News · Social Life & Customs

Royal Wedding Dresses at Kensington Palace

From the BBC News website:

To celebrate the marriage of Prince William and Kate, Kensington Palace has brought out six sumptuous gowns – seldom seen by the public – all worn by royal brides over the past 200 years.

Take a look with Senior Curator Joanna Marschner, and see how fashions changed through the decades.

[Image: Princess Margaret’s wedding dress, 1960, from the Kensington Palace website]

Watch the slideshow with close-up detail of the dresses here at Kensington Palace: http://www.hrp.org.uk/learninganddiscovery/discoverthehistoricroyalpalaces/royal-wedding-dresses.aspx

 or here at the BBC News http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-13207649

 

[Image: Princess Charlotte’s 1816 wedding dress at Kensington Palace; on right, the wedding dress of Princess Alexandra of Denmark in 1863]

Copyright @2100 by Deb Barnum of Jane Austen in Vermont
Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · News · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

Follow Friday [a day early!] ~ Regency Dances.org

Regency Dancing was how young ladies and young gentlemen met and courted, and the dance floor was often the only place they could talk without being overheard by their chaperones. As was to be expected, the dancing was lively and flirtateous. The dancing needs to be accurate and elegant, but always remember that it is also about love and young people having fun.

A lovely email from a Gentleman in England alerted me to this new website on Regency Dances [ http://RegencyDances.org ]. 

From his email:

Launched in January, the site is a free learning resource for Regency Dances. As well as providing dance notations, the dances are shown as animations.  This combination of watching the animation while following the notation has been found to be an excellent way of quickly understanding the structure of a dance.  The dances are taken from original 18th -19th century sources and written into modern notation by experienced dancers under the watchful eye of a recognised international expert. 

Two or three new dances are added each week.  To keep informed you can “follow” them on Twitter at http://twitter.com/RegencyDances

The objective of http://RegencyDances.org is to create an international shared website resource independent of any specific dance group for (a) sharing genuine Regency dances of known provenance, (b) sharing news of upcoming Regency balls, and (c) sharing information about other Regency groups. 

The site includes a history of the dances, the various dance steps presented in animations, lists of dances and music sources, plans on how to organize a Regency party, a listing of various societies and upcoming events, and a very informative section on “What to Wear” which includes the details of the era fashions and how to locate or make your very own costume.

Please visit the site if you have any interest in the dance of Jane Austen’s period – new information is being constantly added, and the site editors are “looking for sources of recorded music that we may use, videos of single dances to be selected as examples of ‘good practice’ and a few more editors.”

If you are a member of a Regency dance group, certainly add your name and events to their growing list.

[Image: Regency Dances website]

Copyright @2011 by Deb Barnum of Jane Austen in Vermont.
Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

Royal School of Needlework

I happened to catch this on CBS’s Sunday Morning while trekking on my tredmill – a very nice piece on the Royal School of Needlework, located in the Hampton Court Palace:

The RSN is the international centre for teaching, practicing and promoting hand embroidery across a wide range of techniques.

We offer hand embroidery courses for all levels; conservation and restoration of historic needlework or creation of new embroideries in our Studio; tours to see some of our needlework Collection and more. [you can schedule private tours to see pieces in the collection that are not viewable to the general public]

There are various books offered in the shop – here are two examples:

 

You can order the whitework sampler kit celebrating the upcoming royal wedding of William and Kate for £30:

You can view the CBS video here:

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7363014n

[Hampton Court Palace:  image from Evan Evans Tours]

Embroidery images from the RSN website; you can join their Facebook page here:  http://www.facebook.com/pages/Royal-School-of-Needlework/185840784788771

Copyright @2011 by Deb Barnum at Jane Austen in Vermont
Fashion & Costume · News · Social Life & Customs

Fashion in Vermont ~ The Shelburne Museum

The Shelburne Museum in Shelburne, Vermont will be hosting its first major fashion and costume exhibition June 18, 2011 – October 30, 2011: 

In Fashion: High Style 1690-2011

In Fashion comprises over 75 costumes from the Museum’s permanent collection plus a select number of borrowed works from today’s top designers and design houses including Karl Lagerfeld, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Giambattista Valli, Giovanni Bedin, Balenciaga, Christian Siriano and others. The exhibit is presented in several sections: Haute Couture, Complete the Look, Fashionable 50’s, and Head to Toe.

In addition to including established names in the industry, the exhibit includes work by fashion design students from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. FIT students competed for the chance to have their designs included in the exhibit. They were asked to create pieces that complement a select number of bodices from the Museum’s historic collection.

Haute Couture: Pieces from the 19th-century by Parisian designers House of Worth and Emile Pingat exhibited alongside pieces from several of the most established and well-known contemporary designers.

Complete the Look: Eight late-19th and early- 20th century bodices from incomplete high-style garments drawn from the collection. Displayed with these pieces are pieces designed by students from the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. FIT students competed to be a part of the exhibit. [See the Complete the Look website  for the 8 wining submissions – this is great fun to see what the students have done with the various bodices!]

Fashionable ‘50s: Clothing from the 1950’s represents one of the great strengths of the Museum’s collection. Poodle skirts and bespoke dresses by Hattie Carnegie for Museum founder Electra Havemeyer Webb are interpreted from a design, materials, and historical point of view.

Head to Toe: Accessories Hats to Heels includes handbags, hats, shoes and fans reflecting the glamor of the Gilded Age. Clothes to the Vest showcases men’s vests dating from the late 18th and early 19th century. Coat Couture features a selection of high end outerwear.

[Text and images from the Shelburne Museum website]

You can view the online gallery here – click on “View Gallery” link to scroll through 22 images.

I’ll be reporting more on this exhibit once it opens.  The Shelburne Museum is one of Vermont’s many treasures, famous for its quilts, decorative arts, carriages, and art masterpieces. It is not-to-be-missed if you are visiting us.  And if you are afraid that spring will never come after the record snowfalls we have suffered through this winter, do not fear – here is the surest sign of hope!:

[image from the Shelburne Museum blog]

Copyright @2011 by Deb Barnum, at Jane Austen in Vermont
Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · Jane Austen Popular Culture · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

The Regency Encyclopedia ~ An Interview with Sue Forgue

Please join us today as we interview Sue Forgue, creator of the fabulous Regency Encyclopedia  website.  I did a Follow Friday  for Sue’s website a few months back, and Laurel Ann at Austenprose  did the same a few weeks ago to announce the recent changes to the fashion module.  Sue has also recently written two articles:    “The Mighty Muslin in the JASNA News (Vol. 26, No. 3, Winter 2010); and What’s in a Name?” JASNA News (Vol. 25, No. 3, Winter 2009) –  where you can get a taste of what is in the “encyclopedia.”

So we welcome Sue, as she celebrates the fifth anniversary of her Regency-related undertaking!

JAIV:  Hello Sue!  Lovely photograph of you in your Regency attire!  It is nice to connect in cyberspace if not right here in Vermont – and great to meet you in Portland  –  I can finally put a face to your name! – So please start if you will, by telling us a little about yourself.

SF:  I enjoyed meeting you in Portland too but I’ve greatly enjoyed our emails pondering the details of Regency London since then as well. Briefly, my background is that I’m an accountant working for a family with a very wide array of interests. My degree is in classical voice and I thought I was going to be an opera star in my twenties but yeah, life happened.

JAIV:  An opera star! – how exciting!

How and when did you begin the website? Is this completely an avocation or part of your work-life? And why the Regency period – why this time and place?

SB:  After the 1995 version of P & P, an explosion of Austen fan fiction websites exploded all over the web. At first, the community was pretty small and I got a reputation as one of the history buffs. Writers would ask me questions about the period and many times when I went to research, I’d get caught up reading something else in the book I was paging through. Six or eight hours later, maybe I’d remember I was supposed to be looking for an answer for someone. So, to be a lot more disciplined, I started typing my notes into an Excel spreadsheet. When one of those writers turned out to be a programmer, Victoria of JAFF Index fame, and heard about the spreadsheet, she was the one who encouraged me to make it into a website. Since then, the site has grown organically through users’ suggestions and contributions of their own research. Yes, this is completely maintained by me in my free time – it’s my labor of love and contribution to the cosmos.

As to why the Regency period, there are certain times in history that just appeal to me and Regency England is one of them. While there were many bad things the Victorians have to be thanked for getting rid of, the Georgians seem to be more accessible to us because of their upper class elegance and their more realist attitudes to subjects such as the seven deadly sins.

Although I have to say, while I love this period, just about any outside source will get me started researching a historical era. For example, when I Claudius aired, not only did I read the Robert Graves books it was based on, but I actually went back to the original Suetonius and read that too. I guess I’m just historically curious.

 

JAIV:  The Fashion Gallery is very extensive and impressive! – when did you begin your love affair with Regency fashion?

SF:  Oh that’s easy to answer – I grew up with it. My mother graduated from the Art Institute of Chicago with a degree in fashion design and had a career before she married my father, so there were lots of art books in the house and on every vacation, we were sure to visit an art museum in every place we visited. Don’t know why, but I was always more interested in the history of fashion books that were stored in our basement.

JAIV:  The new fashion modules of color palettes and ‘Dressing the Doll’ is great fun! – I have been mixing and matching teals and lavenders and coming up with all sorts of lovely (and hideous!) fashion statements! Was this suggested to you to do or was it always in your plans if the technology bugs could be worked out?

SF:  The Dress the Doll feature was something I’ve wanted to do from the beginning and did have to wait for the right time both because of the programming to achieve it and I felt there were more pressing projects that needed to be launched first such as the Map Module. However, as I said, this has been a priority from the beginning but as there are already a few very fine websites where you can play around and have a lot of fun doing it, I didn’t know how historically accurate the colors chosen were or if the garments were just copied from the movie adaptations. Since I had a huge database of prints given to me in 2009, the time was then right to explore that ready-made gold mine of information. The more I catalogued, the more curious I became about what exactly morone or hessian green looked like and the grand search commenced to find something that showed me what those colors were. Still haven’t found that ultimate source but I did the best I could with the html codes for the color swatches.

 

JAIV:  The Map Gallery is an amazing creation! – all that information of where places were, when addresses changed, buildings disappearing, and so many maps! I have been doing some of this locating on maps and find there are at times discrepancies in written texts about addresses, etc. What is your most reliable source for verifying locations? And explain if you can about how you have acquired permission to use the Horwood maps [see below for an example].

SF:  Thank you, I have to say the Tour of London is my favorite part of the website. I used many sources to identify the shops. There are historians’ books that mention addresses in passing plus I have three digitized London directories from 1799, 1819 and 1822 that gave me some addresses. Also, some of the shops still in existence like Fortnum & Mason have a history section on their websites and that could be helpful as well as merchants moved around a lot.

I stumbled into using the Horwood map panels and I’m very grateful that I did. The users told me that they wanted a more detailed map of London than what I had for the Time and Distance calculations and I identified a couple of possibilities. The first person I contacted ignored me and the second refused permission to use their map panels, even with me paying for permission. A Google search brought me to the A to Z Guide of Regency London that you’ve quoted many times in your blog posts. A few phone calls to the UK and my credit card to purchase the rights from the publisher and the Guildhall Library got the ball rolling.

JAIV:   You say the site is “a collection of interesting sound bites about the era” – are there any areas you would like to develop further?

SF:  Oh gosh yes. Have to finish the other five Dress the Dolls first but then I want to expand the Chronology module with a late Georgian era almanac – you know, if this is your birthday, you share a birthday with…. and these are the famous things that happened in … and maybe add a few other bells and whistles.

After that, I’ve been kicking around an apothecary’s module with a database of plants used in what remedies curing what ailments. If I do it, I have a source I can use, but as I’m not a scientist, I don’t know if I’d get royally bored with all the Latin and medical terms.

And who knows, I’ve been surprised with special gifts from friends. The original source material for both the Georgina Names and the Fashion Gallery was given me from a friend in the UK and that happily detoured the update of the Chronology module twice.

JAIV:  Oh, I love this idea of an apothecary module!  And Mr. Perry could be our gossipy guide!

You do keep the website as requiring a log-in and password, but see that you have recently added links to other sites that have made the logins public [with your permission of course!] – Why do you prefer to maintain it as a private site? And have there been any problems with making it more accessible?

SF:  It started out as a hindrance to nasty hackers, as my programmer was very much concerned about unauthorized people messing with the site but I’ve found it very helpful to know where people are coming from, as knowing who’s using the site does play a part in determining what’s the next module or how we’re going to enhance the current ones. For example, we get more visitors from the fan fiction community than from academia, so I’m more inclined to provide programming that’s of a more “practical” usage to authors actively writing.

I’ve had a couple of people complain about trying to find the entrance information but if you know the site is called the Regency Encyclopedia and Google it, the first couple of entries will bring you to sites with a user id and password. But, I do want to be welcoming, so that’s why we have the links to other sites upfront while still putting up a hurdle for hackers.

JAIV:  I know you have been begun to do a series of talks on Jane Austen’s London in your area [alas! too far for me!] – Tell us a little about your talks. And what questions are you most often asked?

SF:  And I wish I could be at your lecture! Jane Austen mentioned all these London street names in the novels and we sort of let that all slide past us as we’re reading. When I started plotting them out for the Tour of Regency London and looked around the neighborhood, all kinds of Duh moments hit me in the head. When you locate these streets on a period map, you’ll start to see all sorts of possibilities in terms of Austen’s characters. My lecture concentrates on the social geography of where Austen’s characters live and we travel from the City of London in the east to Mayfair in the west, talking about the social implications of living where she put those characters.

As to questions, hmmm, they’ve been all over the map. Sorry, bad pun. People are really interested in how people lived so they question me on those details. LOL, I was more scared of not being able to answer people’s questions than giving the lecture that first time.

 

JAIV:  We could talk at length about London, but will ask “What is your favorite place in London?” or at least the place you would want to spend more time in?

SF:  Oh, unlike Elizabeth Bennet, put me any fine house richly furnished and I’ll be happy, lol. Of course, most of those houses also have a lot of history and portraits of people in them too. Seriously, the National Portrait Gallery is one of my favorite haunts as I’m fascinated by how people wanted to present themselves to the world over the centuries. I’ll probably be found there for an afternoon when I’m back in the UK in July.

JAIV:  Do you think Jane Austen liked London, or was it as she humorously says “A Scene of Dissipation and Vice” where her morals were sure to be corrupted!?

SF:  As I say in the conclusion of my lecture, I feel that just by the amount of misfortune Austen sets in London that she disapproves of the metropolis, as most people of the time did, but you also see her fascination with it as a source of dramatic momentum. Things “happen” in London.

JAIV:  You have a very nice bibliography of sources listed on the site. What would you consider the most indispensable of your reference sources? And after that? – if someone was starting a Regency collection, what top five books should they have?

SF:  Everything by Deirdre Le Faye to start with. I also like the David M. Shapard annotations and the Claire Tomalin biography of Austen. These are the first ones that come off the top of my head for starting a collection. I have other favorites for certain subjects but that’s more specialized and maybe not of interest for someone just getting their feet wet.

JAIV:  Yes, the Tomalin biography is lovely, as are all her other biographies.  And what would we do without Deirdre Le Faye!

What title would you say in on the top of your wish-list?

SF:  Ha! You mean after more time and money? I was quite disappointed that Santa spent all his time at the second-hand bookstores and missed the easy purchase of the new Selwyn book on Children. [David Selwyn, Jane Austen and Children] Hope the message gets through loud and clear to the Birthday Bunny.

JAIV:  Well, hopefully that ‘Birthday Bunny’ is reading this! – it is a great read, so I do hope you get it soon!

I find I learn something new every day – there is so much “out there” and unless one stays on top of it every minute, a whole new website or blog or image or map will have passed you by? How do you stay current?

SF:  It’s not easy, that’s for sure. I have two methods of staying current: the first is to make a daily constitutional of all my Austen bookmarked sites. Most times, I’ll get my first notice of new blogs or book recommendations from all of you. The second is to use my website statistics where I can track the URLs of people stopping by to visit.

JAIV:  What has been a recent discovery for you? And what has been your latest “I’m completely stumped” moment?

SF:  Last year, I read a book on pregnancy and childbirth that came highly recommended to me (Judith Schneid Lewis, In the Family Way, Childbearing in the British Aristocracy, 1760-1860) where I was stunned to learn that unlike the Victorians, women did not hide away if they were showing and that a confinement started when the baby was born. The other eye-opener was to read about all the double entendres in Austen’s fiction according to Jill Heydt-Stevenson’s Austen’s Unbecoming Conjunctions. That book alone has provided hours of stimulating conversation among friends and family.

The stumper, and I hope this doesn’t gross people out, is that I’m still wondering about those female hygiene matters. I assume they used rags for their monthlies but how did they stay put without safety pins? Wearing those flimsy dresses, did ladies shave their underarms or did they sew shields in their sleeves like the men had in their shirts? I know I’ll be visiting the Museum of Fashion in Bath in July, so hopefully a curator there can answer that for me.

JAIV:  Any plans to write a book of your own?

SF:  Oh heck no. But then again, I never expected to be writing articles or a lecture either.

JAIV:  What do you do in your spare time?? [ is there any?!]

SF:  Not as much as I’d like for all my other interests. I love traveling and seeing things when I can afford the time and expense. So many things, like needlework and singing, I used to enjoy but don’t have time for any more.

JAIV:  What else do you read other than Regency period books? – Fiction? Non-fiction? Biography? Regency Romance?

SF:  Politics, Current Events and yes, I have a stash of Regency Romance too. They’re my therapy when the accounting gets too overwhelming and I start dreaming in numbers.

JAIV:  So who is on your Regency Romance shelf?

Two most favorite Regency writers are Julia Quinn & Regina Jeffers. Reading too many historians to venture into the actual literature of the age – though I did force myself to read Pierce Egan’s Life in London.  Sigh, I thought I was going to enjoy it a lot more than I did. I swear, I just cannot understand these writers’ love affair with the semi-colon.

JAIV:  And of course the oft-asked- really-cannot-answer-question: What is your favorite Jane Austen? And Why?

SF:  You can’t knock a classic like Pride and Prejudice off the literary pedestal since I know I wish I were more like Elizabeth Bennet in temperament and I just love the decorous but biting social humor in it. While the other novels do have elements of social satire, I don’t think you’re chuckling from almost end to end in any other of the major novels. However, I do have soft spots in my heart for Marianne Dashwood as I was just as bad a hopeless romantic at age 17 as she is and I also cheer for Anne Elliot, who triumphs over every hurdle thrown her way with such grace.

JAIV:  Your thoughts on Google Books and ebooks, etc…

SF:  I love both books you can hold in your hands and the ebooks. For me, I want to have a physical book for the Austen related subjects so I can flip through it again and again easily. But there are very few books on politics or current events that once I’ve read them, I want to keep on my bookshelf collecting dust, so I actually prefer those on ebooks.

JAIV:   Anything else you want to share about your website or your plans for future additions to it?

SF:  Well, I sort of let the cat out the bag earlier on the future direction of the website but I do thank you for these very thoughtful questions. I’ve very much enjoyed answering them. You’re a treasure Deb and I value your friendship. Thank you for all you do!

*********************

Thank YOU Sue, for all that You do! and for stopping by here to give the very interesting details about yourself and your on-going Regency project.  If anyone has any questions for Sue, please ask away – I will see that she answers them! – alas! no prize giveaways here today, except the prize of learning more about Sue’s website and the Regency period! – Take some time and go for a walk through the pages of the Regency Encyclopedia, ending it all with “dressing the doll” in the costume of your choice!

Note:  to access the site you will need the following: [case-sensitive]

Login:  JAScholar
Password: Academia

Thanks again Sue – It has been great fun learning more about you!
Everyone else ? – please comment with any questions for Sue!

[Images from The Regency Encyclopedia, @ Sue Forgue, 2011]

Copyright @2011, by Deb Barnum at Jane Austen in Vermont
Fashion & Costume · Jane Austen · Regency England · Social Life & Customs

How the Fashion-obsessed Jane Austen Would Love What’s Under My Christmas Tree!

Two books I have wanted found their way under my Christmas tree by way of Santa and his sleigh.  These are books to savor, perhaps even drool over on these cold dark winter nights! Here is just a quick summary: 

Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail, by Avril Hart and Susan North.  Photographs by Richard Davis; Drawings by Leonie Davis.  London:  V&A Publishing, 2009.  [First published by V&A in 1998 as Historical Fashion in Detail from the 17th  and 18th Centuries].  ISBN 978 185177 567 5

From the introduction:  

These remarkable photographs of the V&A’s collection of historical dress capture the essence of each stylish garment, opening up new perspectives on high fashion between 1600 and 1800.  Offering a lively survey of fashionable patterns, fabrics and colours, the images depict a wide variety of styles and effects, from the minimalism of mid-18th-century white-work to the flamboyant excesses of high Baroque flowered silks…

Each chapter offers close-up photographs showing the varied details of dress, accompanied by line drawings and a full description of each piece.  I give as an example the description of “long sleeves” in the chapter on “Collars, Cuffs and Pockets”:   

Long sleeves in women’s dress became fashionable in the 1780s, and with them, new ways of fastening and decoration at the wrists.  In this very simple cotton gown from the late 1790s, the sleeve is closed with a narrow band of fabric, edged with piping, which fastens with hook and eye. 

While the pattern of the fabric is similar to that of the jacket on the left, the crispness and precision of the English printed cotton seen contrasts with the loose, flowing execution of the Indian printed fabric.  Block-printing on cotton began in England in the 1750s, imitating designs of imported Indian fabrics.  The pattern of floral trails seen here exhibits a blend of influences from Indian-painted and printed textiles, and rococo woven silks, a style which remained popular until the end of the century.  [Pictured is a woman’s gown of printed cotton, English, 1795-1799, followed by sleeve detail]  [p. 94-95]

 

Austen of course was concerned about her longs sleeves:  “I wear my gauze gown today, long sleeves & all; I shall see how they succeed, but as yet I have no reason to suppose long sleeves are allowable … [and later] … Mrs. Tilson has long sleeves too, & assured me that they are worn in the evening by many.  I was glad to hear this.– ” [Ltr. 99, 9 March 1814]

Chapters included: 

  • Stitching, Seams, Quilting and Cording
  • Gathers, Pleats and Looped Drapery
  • Collars, Cuffs and Pockets
  • Buttons
  • Trimmings
  • Applied Decoration
  • Slashing, Pinking and Stamping
  • Knitting, Lace and Openwork
  • Stomachers
  • Gloves and Shoes
  • Glossary and Select Bibliography 

**************** 

The great overlap of the 18th and 19th centuries meant that Santa had to do double duty and also leave the Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail, by Lucy Johnston, with Marion Kite and Helen Persson.  Photographs by Richard Davis; Drawings by Leonie Davis.  London:  V&A Publishing, 2009 [first published, 2005].  ISBN: 978 18177 572 9. 

Many of the Influences, innovations and stylistic changes that shaped nineteenth-century fashion are brought to life by the garments illustrated in this book.  The delicate embroidery on neo-classical gowns, elegant tailoring on men’s coats, vibrant colours of artificial dyes and profusion of ornate trimmings reveal some of the details which make this period so rich.  They also show how a woman’s silhouette was transformed during this era through whalebone corsets, cage crinolines, bustles and skilful garment construction…. [Introduction, p. 7]

Again, each piece of clothing is presented with a photograph, a line drawing, and a full description .  Chapters included: 

  • The Male Image
  • Historicism
  • Romantic Styles
  • Exoticism
  • Innovations
  • Construction Details
  • The Natural World
  • Glossary and Select Bibliography 

Two quite amazing books, filled with sumptuous detail, lovely patterns and fabrics, showing the clothing of the fashion-conscious middle and upper class men and women of these times.  If you have any interest in fashion, these definitely need to be added to your collection!  Thank you Santa for paying attention and seeing how much I needed these!  Makes one want to drag out the sewing machine…

P.S. There is another book in this series, titled, Underwear Fashion in Detail – [V&A Publishing, 2010] perhaps Santa was too embarrassed to bring this one?

Illustrations from the V&A website.  Books are available at the V&A online Shop, and also available at other booksellers.

Copyright @Jane Austen in Vermont, 2008-2010.